For those of us that are concerned with the health and welfare of Mother Earth, eating organic produce has become a life choice. We know that organic farming starts with nourishment of the soil which eventually leads to the nourishment of the planet and ultimately, ourselves. Organic, sustainable and biodynamic farming all shun the use of pesticides, fertilizers and herbicides. I could go on and on about how important these types of farming are to the people working in the fields, to the condition of the soil and the underground water tables, to the non-hazardous insects and plants that get in the way, and ultimately to the health of those consuming the produce — but I won’t. I want to talk about how it is being integrated into the viticulture of wine grapes.

The first time I really noticed the difference of sustainable, organic or biodynamic agriculture was the first time I visited Shafer Vineyards in Napa Valley. This winery was one of the leaders in sustainable agriculture in Napa Valley. Sustainable agriculture means there are no chemicals used in the vineyards at all — no fertilizers, pesticides or herbicides. Wineries practicing this type of farming plant nutrient-fortifying plants among the rows of the cultivating plant, in this case grapes, to add nutrients to depleted soils. These wineries release positive insects into the vineyards, like ladybugs or wasps, which control harmful insects. They build hawk nests in the vineyards to control larger pests such as rabbits. They use what nature supplies to replace man-made chemical alternatives. The wines at Shafer Vineyards are some of the finest wines Napa Valley produces with wine critics’ scores and prices to match.

Biodynamic viticulture is based on the writings from Austrian scientist Rudolph Steiner, which seeks to heal the earth through creating and maintaining unique, self-sustaining farm ecosystems. Biodynamic viticulture can sometimes have a “voodoo” mysticism to those first introduced to its unique blend of ancient ideas of cultivation by the natural cycles of the earth and the burying of cow’s horns in the vineyard for the nutrients. But in reality it is working with Mother Nature to create a naturally sustainable ecosystem and the results have been astonishing. The specific requirements of biodynamic farming include, but are not limited to: there being no pesticides, fertilizers or herbicides used; crop fertility is based on composting that has very specific guidelines; animal feed, transplanting, cuttings and composting materials are from the farm, not imported; and the farm must be under biodynamic management for 12 to 24 months.

There are more biodynamic wineries in Europe than here in the United States, but it is a growing interest. Some wineries in California currently farming with biodynamic techniques include Robert Sinskey, Au Bon Climant, Araujo and Ceago. In Europe you might recognize some familiar wineries such as M. Chapoutier and Fluery in France, Domaine Ostertag in Germany and Penfolds (partial) in Australia.

“Organic” is a classification unique in that it has government certification. The California Organic Certification is stricter than criteria for the USDA certification. However, both pale in comparison to the European certification. The California Certified Organic Farms (CCOF) certification states that grapes must be grown without the use of conventional pesticides, without the use of synthetic or sewage sludge fertilizers, and there can be no bio-engineering or iodizing radiation. CCOF encourages composting, using cover crops for soil nutrition and using beneficial insects in the vineyards. The certification usually takes up to four years, and this is only a certification for the grapes, not the wine made from the grapes. Currently there are more than 100 grape growers in California that are certified organic.

Organic wines must be made from certified organic grapes and are vinted under the standards of organic wine processing which are currently under review. The 19 wineries in California that are currently certified organic limit the naturally occurring preservative sulphur dioxide in their wines, do not add more sulfites, and are required to use 100 percent organically certified grapes.

There are many wineries in California that use organic farming methods in their vineyards but do not specify it on the labels. Many wineries believe in organic, sustainable or biodynamic farming, however, if there were to be a parasitic invasion, such as the glassy-winged Sharpshooter that spreads Pierce’s disease, organic certification would restrict the ability to respond swiftly and effectively to spare the vineyards through conventional methods. It is for this reason fewer wineries seek the certification.

So, when you are looking to buy “organic” wine, look a little deeper into the viticulture. You might be surprised how many of your favorite wines do farm sustainably or with a little “voodoo” and the results can be magnificent — and they may never brag about on their labels.

Susanne Johnston owns Frisco Wine Merchant. You can reach her at (970) 668-3153 or at Susanne@friscowine.com.