Once upon a long time ago, I developed a fascination with Tahiti and the islands of the South Pacific. Maybe it was seeing "Mutiny on the Bounty" for the first time or perhaps it was something I saw at the New York Worlds Fair back in the 60s. I even remember this toxic waste in a can that was developed to compete with Hawaiian Punch, called Tahitian Treat. I loved that stuff. Doubt I could drink one now though. Later on in life, as I learned to sail, the lyrics from Steve Still's "Southern Cross" would bear to mind. A song, if you don't recall, is about being aboard his schooner "Music" in the Marquesas and the islands of French Polynesia

I knew that somehow, someday, I had to go there. As luck would shine on me I got a chance to do that this past May.

We had heard mostly great things about Tahiti from friends who had visited. Incredibly romantic, great food, great snorkeling and diving, amazing flowers, wonderfully laid back lifestyle. It was every bit of that and more. We had also heard that it was obscenely expensive and that since this was a French governed territory until the early 1980s, that the island people had that rather unfriendly "French" attitude, especially towards Americans. That part could not have been further from the truth. I've been to Hawaii and gotten the "Stink Eye" from the locals. There was absolutely none of that anywhere we went in Tahiti. The people are modest, honest and incredibly friendly and happy. As far as the "expensive" part, yes, the Polynesian Franc floats with the Euro which is kicking butt on the dollar these days. We traded in $465 US dollars at the LAX money exchange and got $350 in Francs. It is true, you can spend a lot of money on a Tahitian vacation but there are many ways to do it on a budget as well, as we found out from a couple from Ventura California who used air miles to get there and stayed mostly in "pensions" which are small guest houses. It was their third trip there. The way I looked at it, it was perhaps my only time there so it was live it up and worry about the credit card bills later. Tipping is not practiced in the Polynesian culture so you will save quite a few dollars in that regard.

Each island has its own flavor, character, and charm. They are all very rugged, and mountainous. The jungle is incredibly dense, so most everyone lives on or near the beach, or out on the "motus" (small islets inside the coral reefs that surround the main islands). The best known of the "Society Islands" are Tahiti, Bora Bora, Moorea, Raiatea, Huahine and Tahaa. However, there are many less well know islands all accessible by air from Faa'a airport in Pape'ete the main city and Capital on the island of Tahiti.

One of the things that struck me the most about these islands was the absence of anything even remotely close to the high-rise buildings so common in the rest of the world. Once you travel away from Pape'ete its very hard to find even a two story building, and this includes all the nicest resorts. Quite refreshing I must say. Another was the smells, everywhere you go you are surrounded by exotic flowers. Bouganvilla, Frangipani, Heliconias, Gardenias, Tiares and Plumeria being the most common. The local people live quite modestly in small bungalow style homes. They speak French, but the native tongue has its roots from Maylasia and it very similar to Hawaiian in that everything ends in a vowel (or two). For those intimidated by foreign languages you need not worry. Most everyone speaks at least some English at the resorts, restaurants, airports, car rental agencies etc and there is always someone on duty who is fluent.

All commercial flights from the US, depart Los Angeles via Air Tahiti Nui, twice a day. Its about 8 hours and 15 minutes in the air and the time difference from Pacific Standard is 2 hours (same as Hawaii). Ironically, if you look at a globe, Tahiti is further east than Hawaii, the fact that it is so far south makes it a longer flight. All flights land in Pape'ete, all inter-island flights connect from there.

Because of the time frame of the flight and clearing customs it is wise to plan a night in Pape'ete (Tahitian for 'basket of water'). Population approximately 27,000. We lucked out and pre-booked a room at the "Intercontinental", just minutes by taxi from airport. It turned out to be very nice with excellent food, great infinity pools and a private beach.

Everywhere we went, the food was exceptional. There is a natural "French Connection" with Paris, in that there are plenty of great French Chefs who want to spend a couple of years in Tahiti, swapping their talents for free room and board as well as some time in paradise. The menus are not totally French cuisine driven but quite well rounded. We had some of the best sushi of our entire lives there.

Moorea, which is only seven nautical miles from Tahiti was our first stop. In the rough shape of a catcher's mitt, it is home to less that 15,000 people. The mountains on Moorea were my favorite. Rugged, mystical, spires enshrouded in what seemed to be a perpetually moving mist. The day we drove around the island I half expected a dinosaur of some sort to burst out of the jungle being chased by King Kong. What with Hollywood seeming to shoot a remake every five years, I would not have thought it entirely unlikely.

The bays on the north side of the island, Cook's Bay and Opunohu are spectacular and the drive up into Opunohu valley to the Belvedere lookout, where the views are unbelievable, is a must. This spot is also a major junction for nearly all the main hiking trails on the island.

There are several very nice hotels on the island, Sheraton Lagoon Resort, Sofitel la Ora and the Intercontinental Beachcomber, which by the way has a very cool dolphin tank where you can pay to swim with those wonderful mammals. Less expensive and historically quite interesting is the "Bali Hai". On Cook's Bay, it was built in the 1960s by three Americans. Its showing its age these days but if you don't stay there, at least go over for lunch. It's the kind of place you'd expect to run into an Errol Flynn type.

The highlight of the trip was that we had booked a four night stay in a "premium" over the water bungalow at "Le Meridian" on Bora Bora. The inter-island flight from Moorea to Bora Bora is only about 40 minutes. The view from the air is so awesome.

Bora Bora was an important supply base for the United States in World War II, with up to 6,000 men stationed here at one time. They built the airport runway out on Motu Mute which until 1961, when Faa'a airport opened in Pape'ete, was the international airport for French Polynesia. There are no hotels on Motu Mute so everyone is transferred by some sort of boat to either the main land or one of the surrounding motus where most of the top resorts are. The lagoon around the main island is every bit worthy of all the postcard shots that have been taken of it. In the center of the island is a 2,200 foot spire called "Mt. Otemanu" which after asking several native people, learned that literally interpreted, it means "Bird Butt". I did not really see the resemblance, but it does look like a small version of the Grand Teton. Very Impressive.

We were escorted on a speed boat by a representative of Le Meridian to Motu Piti Aau where the hotel is located. The hotel, only 10 years old, seemed quite elegant as we approached. Our anticipation piqued as we were given a quick tour of the main grounds, before proceeding to check-in. This was going to be great! However, at the check in lobby, the assistant general manager apologetically explained that they had somehow managed to foul up our reservation and our bungalow was not available. With our hopes of four incredible days of I&I hanging in the balance, he explained that they could move us to the next motu north where they had a new "sister" resort. He said "It's very new, only 10 months old, quite nice, and I think you would like it very much."

We were trying to put on our angriest faces, since our reservation had been made 10 months prior, how could they! He said he would personally take us there in his private boat and if we ever wanted to spend time back at Le Meridian, he would arrange for us to be picked up and brought over any time. Not having much choice, we reluctantly agreed.

Well, it turns out that the "sister" resort was the St. Regis. Conde Nast Magazine's latest "Number One Hotel" in the entire world. I am not sure where to begin the description but lets start by saying the rate for an over the water bungalow is $2,500 a night without meals (we were of course upgraded at no charge, including meals). The over the water bungalows are close to 1,500 square feet and each one cost over a million dollars to build. As we began our intro tour before check-in we looked at each other and said don't pinch me, this has got to be a dream. Le Meridian never again entered our thoughts.

Our bungalow looked right out at the main island and Mt. Otemanu, about three miles across the lagoon. There was a bottle of Moet Chandon 1999 waiting for us, on ice. We walked around our new digs for at least half an hour, wondering if we were going to suddenly wake up. The bungalow had a huge living room with glass insets in the floor so you can see the fish, a stunningly large bathroom too luxurious to describe, a three level out door deck that led to a ladder into the bluest water I have ever seen and so on and so forth. This was what was called a "suite" bungalow (no kidding). There were also several larger ones with small private swimming pools and then there was the 13,000 square foot "Villa" with full sized pool, private grounds as well as a full time "staff". Nicole Kidman and Keith Urban had been the most recent of the very rich and famous to stay there. Needless to say, those four days went by far too fast but will be engrained in memory forever.

On the mainland there is a restaurant quite popular with the tour companies called "Bloody Mary's". A bit overrated as far as the food goes, but a fun and interesting place. There are several plaques outside commemorating all the famous people who have stopped there. Worth going by for a drink at least. We rented what was called a "bugster" to drive around the island. A dune buggy in disguise really. Another worthwhile adventure if you have time. Its only 32 kilometers around the island, so it doesn't take long.

If you want to fly under the radar and sail off the grid, go to the island of Huahine, about halfway between Bora Bora and Tahiti. Where else on the planet could you rent a car without a driver's license, no credit card, no ID whatsoever and pick up a 7-year-old hitchhiker.

Huahine (population about 5,500) is actually two islands connected by a short bridge. The beach road around the islands has just been repaved and was in great shape. The gal at the car rental office said, "Where you gonna go?", then took some cash, called it chicken and said, "Go have fun."

There are many secret hideaways to explore. The towns of Tefarerii and Haapu, the freshwater eels at Faie. These prehistoric looking things are nearly eight feet long and have these spooky blue eyes. I am not sure what they eat but I really would not want to fall into the water with them. The south island is quite rural. We came around a corner in the road to see a small boy flagging us down. As we stopped, he asked us very politely in French, if we could give him a ride to his house. He hopped in and rode with us for a couple of kilometers, chatting in French the whole time. He pointed out his house, jumped out, and said "Au revoir" and that was it. I don't think that kind of thing happens in very many places in this world.

There is only one luxury resort at this time on Huahine. Te Tiare Beach Resort is "older" but well kept and very quaint. An eclectic mix of over water, beach and garden bungalows. We spent two days there and loved it. It is only accessible by boat, as the island road does not go by there. The Sofitel on the north side of the island had been out of business for several years and is becoming overgrown with jungle. There were rumors, however, that some wealthy Europeans were going to buy the property and fix it up in 2008.

Some of the other outer islands that are famous for scuba diving are Rangiroa and Fakarava about a one hour flight north of Pape'ete. There is also Tetiaroa, the island that Marlon Brando bought in 1965 after he filmed the "Mutiny on the Bounty". Asking some of the resort workers, where they would "getaway" to on their time off, many mentioned Maupiti, a smaller version of Bora Bora, yet to be discovered by the tourists.

Should you go? Should you go now? Absolutely. Go now before the dollar gets weaker. Go now before the developers get their greedy hands on some of these places. Go now because you are young and strong enough to have a tremendous adventure. Go on a budget, or go top shelf. You may look back one day and say "that was expensive" but I guarantee you will never regret one penny of the price.