Black grapes of Spanish gold

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By SETH T. MOORE
summit daily news
March 18, 2008

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It's not like I have forgotten about them, but somehow the selection had slipped to the back of the list ...

With so many choices to distract, so many wines to explore, so many tastes to satisfy I lost sight of the region, but recently I found it again. You see, I have always been a fan of spanish wine, in particular, Riojas. Definitely in my top 10 varietals, but somehow it got misplaced in my tastings.

While going through my collection recently I came across a 2001 Marqués de Cáceres Rioja reserva and decided to indulge. So I cut the foil, popped the cork and dove in. It was breathtaking. I swilled the ruby-red goodness around, pulled a nose of berry, earth and tobacco, and took a long drink. Let me tell you, it was good - really good.

Riojas are blended wines of various grapes. The most important, tempranillo, has been the base for Spain's greatest wines for centuries. Cultivated in the remote interior of northern Spain, with mountains on one side and the Ebro River on the other. Needless to say, the slightly cool climate is the perfect setting for growing this grape and gives it its unique characteristics (terrior).

It is often called Spain's Bordeaux, but it characteristics are more similar to Burgundies or Italy sangiovese. Known to be cultivated in the country since the 13th century, but it is safer to forget specific origin and just know that it was a very important to the country's history. It wasn't until the late 18th century that Riojas took the form we know today. A winemaker gave it its signature by adopting long aging in oak barrels, but since the waiting public is impatience younger Riojas have emerged.

That leads us to the fact that there are really two types of Riojas. The old-world style of long aging that seems to mellow it and brings out notes of vanilla. The other has risen in recent years as the new-world style with less aging that comes across with more fruit and a little more kick. Both ways are great, but differ in price. You are going to get a great, consistently good bottle of a younger Rioja for a great price. The well-aged gran reserva's and upper-end of reserva's cost a bit more.

It's not the hardest grape to grow, but the love and care that goes into it is what makes it special. Spain's noble grape, it is supple, elegant, vibrant and smooth. It crawls across the palate with sophistication that's simple. Before I know it the bottle is gone and I am wishing I had more.

When trying to find a great bottle ask your store's local Wine Guy for a tasting sheet. They are usually hidden in a draw, but they give you great insight into particular growing periods, vintages and gives ratings. It is a great way to get through the many bottles and helps find the perfect one. You could also just grab a bottle that looks good and try it out. I will leave it to you.

The legs are long and the flavors haunting. They are some of the most complex, refined and exhilarating wines you will find. Steeped in tradition and dripping with delight. All I really have to say is, "Beber este vino es como hablar con Dios." That pretty much says it all.

Until next time, Cent'Anni.



Seth T. Moore has spent many years in the food service business, working in some of the finest restaurants with the best wine lists in the country. As a private collector and connoisseur he offers his opinions. If you have any questions, comments or just want to talk about wine, Seth T. Moore can be contracted at (970) 668-4616 or smoore@summitdaily.com.