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Tuesday, January 6, 2009

Silverthorne: Bamboo Garden’s namesake sushi roll is a local favorite

Silverthorne eatery features full Asian menu, warm welcome for families

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Bamboo Garden sushi chefs carve a watermelon to be served as a whimsical desert shaped like fish and shrimp, using the green peel as the fins and tails.
Bamboo Garden sushi chefs carve a watermelon to be served as a whimsical desert shaped like fish and shrimp, using the green peel as the fins and tails.ENLARGE
Bamboo Garden sushi chefs carve a watermelon to be served as a whimsical desert shaped like fish and shrimp, using the green peel as the fins and tails.
Summit Daily/Bob Berwyn
SILVERTHORNE — The last time I stopped by Bamboo Garden to pick up an order of sushi, May Yeh wouldn’t let me leave until I ate a bowl of hot miso soup that soothed my slightly ruffled soul and warmed my chilled body on a blustery and hectic pre-Christmas evening.

May, who owns and operates the Silverthorne restaurant with her husband, Ray, exudes that familial warmth with so many of her regular customers, greeting them by name when they walk through the door. Kids are welcome, too.

Bamboo Garden is far more than just a sushi joint. The menu runs the gamut of Asian cuisine, from favorites like Kung Pao chicken, seared Mongolian beef and succulent duck — tender and crispy at the same time — to Thai curries and noodle dishes, available as lunch specials for $7.95.

Start your meal with a batch of divine dumplings and edamame, then work your way through a platter of sesame chicken or the seafood combo to sample the full range of flavors.

Thai dishes include a new special, Thai ocean basil, wonderfully seasoned with the ubiquitous southeast Asian herb, as well as ginger chicken, zesty Sriracha beef and traditional Panang and green curries.

I’ve been wanting to try the Pad Thai for ages, but I keep getting sidetracked by Bamboo Garden’s outstanding sushi bar, where Michael, the current sushi chef, runs a tight but friendly ship. On our last visit, I sampled a nigiri-style order of buttery hamachi (yellowtail) that melted in my mouth.

Over the past year, we’ve worked our way through nearly the entire sushi menu, trying to sample a new “Chef’s special” roll each time. We’ve never been disappointed, and we claim to discover a new favorite each time, although we always order at least one Bamboo Garden roll, which for us will always be the restaurant’s signature dish. Don’t miss it.

Other highlights include an artful rainbow roll and the black dragon roll, topped with a generous portion of smoked eel.

The special rolls are fairly priced, starting at $10.95, and the standard rolls, including the best California roll in Summit County, start at $4.95.

As Leigh, Dylan and I enjoyed a few quiet dinners at Bamboo Garden during the off-season this past year, we got to know the owners just a little bit. Ray would stop by our table to check on the food and to share part of his story with us, starting with how he came to Colorado, speaking not a word of English and trying to find May, his then-girlfriend, who was working in Breckenridge. Relying on the kindness of strangers, Ray eventually found someone who pointed him in the right direction. Years later, he’s still trying to find that person so he can express his gratitude properly.

Far from just being idle chit-chat, it feels like Ray has something vital he wants to pass on, a bit of cultural information about values — perseverance, patience and hard work.

We always leave Bamboo Garden with a portion of food for thought that’s just as satisfying as the tasty noodles and the fabulous sushi rolls.

Bob Berwyn can be reached

at (970) 331-5996, or

at bberwyn@summitdaily.com.

Open Daily

Lunch: 11:30 a.m. - 3 p.m;

Dinner: 11:30 a.m. to close

Address: 190 Meraly Way

(pink stand-alone building next

to McDonalds) in the OfficeMax shopping mall

Phone: (970) 468-6888

Full bar and delivery available


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