One of the current hot topics in rock climbing is whether bolts should be allowed to be drilled into rock faces in congressionally designated wilderness areas. Some sport climbers say yes, and most wilderness advocates say no. So, what’s the big deal?

Many climbers use some form of protection when ascending steep rock faces where falls could be fatal. Traditionally this has meant placement of removable devices to hook a rope through to reduce the length of a fall. These devices are removed by the climber who follows the lead climber, leaving no scars or evidence of their use.

Sometimes, rock faces lack natural features to allow placement of removable protection. Instead of not climbing, climbers in some areas have drilled bolts into the rock walls to hook a rope through or even to construct ladders. As climbers tackle more challenging routes, drilling of bolts is becoming more common, both for safety and to create new routes. Should this be allowed in wilderness areas?  

The 1964 Wilderness Act is the federal law under which Congress designates official wilderness areas. The act is designed to create areas “where the earth and its community of life are untrammeled by man … [and] retains its primeval character and influence, without permanent improvements or human habitation.” Accordingly, the act expressly prohibits construction of roads, use of motorized equipment or mechanical transportation and any “installation.” 

On the other hand, the act provides that, subject to those provisions, wilderness areas “shall be devoted to the public purposes of recreational, scenic, scientific, educational, conservation, and historical use,” including a “primitive and unconfined type of recreation.”

Since 1964, Congress has designated 803 wilderness areas, including some of the most spectacular mountain areas in the United States. Less than 3% of the lands in the lower 48 states are wilderness areas. In some, rock climbing has a rich tradition, including parts of Yosemite, Rocky Mountain National Park, Black Canyon of the Gunnison and Joshua Tree. In some of these areas, the practice of bolting has developed more recently. 

The issue came to a head recently when some federal agencies adopted regulations either prohibiting or regulating installation of bolts. As a result, organizations representing sport climbers urged Congress to adopt legislation expressly allowing bolting in all wilderness areas, even where none has historically occurred.

Congress directed the U.S. Forest Service and National Park Service to propose regulations to deal with the increasing use of bolts. Those agencies released draft regulations last year that are currently undergoing public review and comment. These would recognize that bolting in some wilderness areas may be allowed under a permit system. This has pleased neither side.

Environmentalists have numerous concerns about drilling bolts in wilderness areas. Many wilderness areas are already overcrowded. Sheer rock cliffs are home to threatened populations of raptors, plants and other animals. Climbers create new and unsanctioned trails that degrade habitat for already-stressed flora and fauna. Environmentalists argue that human hubris and personal sports-related ambitions should take back seat to protection and enjoyment of nature in wilderness areas and that wilderness rock faces should not be defaced or manipulated to suit humans desires. 

The bolting issue tests the strength of the Wilderness Act. Many special-interest groups, including mountain bikers, commercial outfitters, and drone enthusiasts, would love to engage in their favorite activities in these spectacular places. But making concessions to one group opens the door to others. Are wilderness areas just another playground? Or is the Wilderness Act a self-imposed restraint on doing whatever we want, wherever we want? We will see.

Mike Browning is a lifelong climber, having completed the Seven Summits (highest points on each continent) and hundreds of other peaks in Colorado and internationally. Mike is a volunteer wilderness ranger for the U.S. Forest Service and the Eagle Summit Wilderness Alliance.